Sweet Week: Gone to the Gomme

Published Jan. 18, 2010 at 6:07 p.m.

Simple syrup, sugar syrup, gum syrup, bartender's gum,...these three names are often used to refer to the same thing, a drink sweetener made of sugar and water (see previous post). However, true gum syrup (or gomme) is a little different than the rest and if you have not tried it in a cocktail you are missing out on an experience that will surely enhance your drinking.

Real gomme syrup contains gum arabic, an emulsifier that aids the mixing of the sweet syrup and a cocktail's alcohol and mixers. The noticeable difference between a gum and a simple syrup cocktail, however, is that the cocktail made with gum has an alluring silky texture and a softer taste of alcohol. One of the best drinks you make to examine the difference yourself is the classic Sazerac. In the gum version you will notice that the absinthe and rye are smoother and more refined.

So what's the story of gomme syrup? It is quite honestly hard to tell because like so many elements of the bar there are conflicting stories. The best that I can explain it is that gomme syrup was once commonly used and that over the years the easier and less expensive simple syrup took its place.

David Wondrich's Imbibe! has a recipe for "true" gum syrup from the 1871 Gentleman's Table Guide, which makes a hefty batch of syrup starting out with a pound of gum and 3 pounds of sugar. Then, if you look at Jerry Thomas' 1887 Bartender's Guide the "Gum Syrup" recipe is nothing more than what we expect of simple syrup. In this bar guide Thomas is also using "loaf" sugar the majority of the time, stating that it should be diluted with a touch of water right before mixing, yet contradicts himself to a certain extent in the forward by saying, "syrup has almost superseded white sugar."

Something as simple and necessary as a drink sweetener is quite complicated, though the one thing that is sure is that "true" gomme syrup does make a very fine cocktail and is worth the effort in finding. If making your own gomme is not something you want to do right away, there are very few commercial brands available. Most notably Small Hands Foods, who also make a pineapple and raspberry gum that are commonly used in cocktails created in the first few decades of the 1900's.

Read more about Gomme Syrup and learn how to make it...

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Sweet Week: Gone to the Gomme originally appeared on About.com Cocktails on Monday, January 18th, 2010 at 18:07:58.

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